How Do I Know If a Bag’s a Dupe or a Trend?
It's not cool to buy dupes, but what if you don't know if it's a dupe? What if the piece is a copy of a brand you are unfamiliar with; how are you supposed to know? How the heck does one in this day and age, know if a bag's a dupe or a trend?
I wanted to start this discussion. With fast fashion, counterfeit and dupe bags are all over the place. And if you're not constantly up on the latest designer collections (few are, including myself), you may not realize that budget-friendly bag from Amazon that goes with your dress is pretending to be a much more expensive one.
But with this, there are a lot of bags out there that aren't trying to fake anyone out, and are just inspired by what was seen on the runways and it becomes an acceptable trend. Yep, this is all confusing, but it's a conversation we need to have. I am not a bag expert, but I believe you deserve to have at least the information I have to be an informed consumer.
As I learn more and as the trends change season to season, I plan to update and improve upon this post. If you have anything you'd like to share, do put it in the comments and it may help another reader and also improve the next version of this article!
How Do I Know If a Bag's a Dupe or a Trend?
First, let's dig into what is a dupe, and what is a trend? Which one is a style no-no, and which one may you be considering buying this season, without knowing its origins?
What is a Dupe?
A dupe is when a company copies a fashion item, often a bag or belt, in such a similar manner it can be confused for the original.
Dupes are Often Counterfeit
Dupes are often counterfeit; the items have the same exact logo, interior brand label, hardware, and textile in an attempt to fake one into thinking it's the original. You know, if you're purchasing this kind of dupe, you know Chanel is not sold on DH Gate or Canal Street, and you know that a Hermès bag wouldn't smell like gasoline.
Dupes are often “The Look for Less”
Other dupes are hella similar but not the same. They're usually a “look for less” where you are getting lesser quality, simpler design, and cheaper materials but the same shape, size, color, and concept. These can be hard to recognize as most of the population isn't keeping up with the latest fashion news.
Dupe is Short for Duplicate
Dupe is short for duplicate. That means it is the same color of textile and hardware, size and shape, and features as the original. If multiple retailers are selling a similar shape or featuring a similar color or design but none of them are exactly replicating the original it is not a dupe, it is a trend. Here is an example of a dupe that may have duped you into thinking it's just a cute option for a handbag:
Bottega Veneta is known for its Intrecciato leather (woven) and a green called Bottega green. Bottega Creative Director Daniel Lee launched this bag in green and other colors at the beginning of 2020. Lee named it the “Jodie” after Jodie Foster, who used an older Itrecciato leather Bottega bag to shield herself from the paparazzi. For more information on this popular bag which has dupes everywhere from Amazon to Nordstrom (including a photo of Foster with her Bottega), check out this article from ReBag.
Because this bag is so incredibly iconic to Bottega Veneta, with its woven leather, knotted handle, and especially the bright green versions, the variations above would be considered dupes. Other designers and brands carry woven leather bags, but the combination of the size, shape, detail (knot), and textile (woven real or faux leather) all together makes it feel way too close to the original.
What is a Trend?
A trend happens either when multiple designers or fashion folk have the same general idea at the same time or when one designer or fashion person does something so well that it inspires others.
When a Trend is Based on Similar Concepts from Multiple Sources
A trend is when multiple designers seem to come out with the same concept simultaneously. Inspired by the world around them, we will see similar trends emerge on runways.
For example, here is a trend I am seeing right now in designer bags. I don't know the exact term for it, but there will be a term for this kind of cinched/clasped bag before the year is through.
These are all designer bags currently for sale at the brand's site or high-end online shops like Net-a-Porter and Neiman Marcus. None would be considered dupes; they are all originals but have a similar concept of being cinched or clasped together.
Again, multiple designers have bags this year with the same concept, which I call a leather tube. These tubes of leather either create a design element or are used to thread the leather handle strap. These are all currently available and not dupes of one another.
I expect to see lower-priced brands and mass retailers carrying bags with these concepts in the near future. Since so many designers came out with this concept at the same time, the cheaper versions are not dupes unless they exactly replicate the color, shape, and size of one of the bags above.
When a Trend is Inspired by a Concept from a Single Source
A trend is also when the same runway concept inspires brands and fashion folk, and they all translate it differently. Let's imagine Gucci's fall/winter collection has multiple models carrying a red glazed leather mini duffle with black metal hardware.
- A hot celebrity in the front row of the fashion show carries the same bag, styled with head-to-toe current Gucci. A fashion editor walks from the show, carrying the same bag styled with a sharp pantsuit.
- A week later, a celebrity walks a red carpet carrying the same Gucci mini duffle. A few days later, a popular Italian influencer styles the Gucci bag with a simple tank top and her boyfriend's jeans.
- Two weeks after the runway show, a popular UK influencer styles the same red Gucci bag with a vintage Gucci dress and trainers. By the end of that same week, a podcaster and a Substacker have both deemed the Gucci bag the It Bag of the season and three TikTokkers have filmed unboxings of their own Gucci red glazed leather mini duffle.
Next thing you know, mini duffles are being sold everywhere from Neiman Marcus to Target, with some made of red-glazed leather and black metal hardware and others just embracing the shape.
If it sounds familiar, it's essentially Miranda Priestley's speech about cerulean blue in The Devil Wears Prada. It's how a trend happens and can help you know if you are buying one, or may look like you're trying to fake a designer original.
How to Prevent Buying a Dupe
There are a few ways to prevent buying a dupe without needing a subscription to Women's Wear Daily or The Business of Fashion:
- If the bag looks really unique, use a search engine to find something similar. For the Dupes collage above, I searched “green woven knot bag,” and at the top of the results came Bottega Veneta, as they have been creating such bags for years. But right after Bottega were Target, DSW, VICI, Light in the Box, Temu, Lulus, and Etsy.
- When I searched “woven knot bag,” Bottega wasn't until the second page, but the first page had many links to “influencer style” and “look for less” and suggested I also look for “Bottega Veneta woven bag.”
- If you can find multiples of the same unique bag on Amazon, there is a good chance it is a dupe of an original.
- Every so often, go to a site like Net-a-Porter and scroll through the new arrival bags. Not only will this help you know what the original unique bags are, it will help you see what trends are going on with bags in regard to color, shape, and textile. I recommend doing this once a season, especially if you are in the market for a new bag.
Are Dupes Always Bad?
I wouldn't be caught really unique bags that are pretending to be the original, but when it's hard to determine if it's a trend or a dupe, I don't find it as offensive. As I mentioned in my latest Quince post, unless you're trying to go for a believable counterfeit designer bag, dupes are always the look for less and are lacking in some manner or another to make them cheaper and the result is more trend-based.
For example, I have this bag from Quince. And I know it's inspired by this bag from Clare V. But I've visited the Clare V. store, held and examined the bag, even ordered one and considered keeping it. I instead went with the Quince one because it actually better fit my personal needs.
When searching for a black leather crescent bag with two straps, I found many bag brands, including designers Coach and Mansur Gavriel, had very similar bags. On eBay, I found vintage Coach bags that were also very similar in shape and design. I believe a leather crescent bag with two straps is as much a trend as Bottega's famous woven leather is now a trend (also used by bag brands like Clare V.).
This is Confusing!
Yep, it is. Essentially, don't buy counterfeit, and don't buy something that looks incredibly unique and is being mass-produced by cheap companies until you do a bit of research.
As grown-ass women, we buy with care. We don't spend willy-nilly, we don't wear counterfeit or obviously dupe clothing, and we know it's more stylish to buy less and buy the best we can afford in styles we know we will enjoy for years to come.
I'd love to continue this discussion as it is a big topic these days, and with fast fashion companies like Temu, Shein, DH Gate, and Amazon, dupes are showing up within 48 hours of a runway show.
Again, I do not consider myself a bag expert. I am solely sharing my knowledge and my thoughts on the subject. I wish to be a useful resource for style advice to keep you looking and feeling chic on your terms. Come on over to the Wardrobe Oxygen Community where we can discuss specific bags or seasonal trends, or share your thoughts below in the comments!
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Great post Alison! For the last few years I’ve only bought preloved bags. Mostly from Vestiaire Collective, where they have a team of experts who examines the bags and stops counterfeits from being sold. That way you can buy high end designer bags at very reasonable prices. Sometimes at a steal, which I’ve done a few times. All in fantastic condition! At the same time I’m reducing my carbon footprint 🙂
Such an interesting read! Makes me think of Birkin bags, that have a classic silhouette that was around before the Birkin bag. 🙂 It’s hard to see that silhouette and not think of Hermes – and I think context helps, since no one who knows me would expect my bag to be from Hermes. 🙂 To me, it’s like calling all facial tissue Kleenex. Hermes became the icon for that bag shape, but in the end, it is a pretty basic bag shape. To your point, a trend or a classic. Whereas the Bottega bag is extremely unique.
I disagree – I don’t think that dupes are bad unless they are explicitly trying to BE the other bag. I will never be able to afford a Hermes Kelly or Birkin, but the shape is iconic for a reason. I purchased a bag that makes no claim to be by Hermes, is identical in shape, the same size as the mini Kelly, slightly lower quality leather, and whose only visible difference is a slightly different lock mechanism. I am not claiming it’s Hermes, nor is the manufacturer. But I will never be able to afford a real Hermes (nor would I consider that to be a good use of my money.). The size and shape of this bag appeal to me, therefore I will purchase and carry it.
Pretty much everything at Zara, H&M, etc. came off someone else’s runway. Art is now and always has been about taking inspiration from other’s work. Taking a plaid wool Ralph Lauren Purple Label jacket and remaking it in a poly wool blend at a lower price with some differences in the color or sheen that come with the new fabric strikes me as just fine. It becomes a problem if I put a Ralph Lauren tag or logo on it.
Art is now and always has been about taking inspiration from other’s work. Bags, Clothing, Shoes, etc. all start out as a form of art before being pushed out to the masses, and I’m not sure what awful things would be available for us to wear if affordable companies couldn’t start from what others have done before.
Yep that’s essentially what I’m saying here ❤️
This reminds me of the day I learned my favorite Sam Edelman loafers were a dupe of Gucci loafers. Not really following fashion, I had no idea before someone mentioned it. Geez. I never felt the same about my loafers after that.
I’m curious if iconic bags are patented, and if designers actually go after companies that create obvious dupes. My guess is, it all happens so fast, there’s very little recourse.
Same! I think I have those same loafers, and also had no idea until recently. And decades ago I bought purse off a street vendor in NYC, only to realize years later that it was a Prada knockoff. (It had no logos or anything — it wasn’t even pretending to be the real thing.) It just filled a need in my closet. Honestly I couldn’t care less about bags and don’t pay attention to high end labels so this will probably happen again!
There has been a case recently, not about a bag but about shoes. Steve Madden copied a shoe by Danish brand Ganni. As there is such a thing as intellectual proporty they took Steve Madden to court, and they won! So you cannot just copy other people’s design and put your own logo on it anymore. It may have consequences!
thanks for this timely blog post — I have been looking for a new Fall bag and feel the same way about dupes, although I’m not willing to spend the $$$ for the designer versions. and, I’m picky about feel, size, versatility, weight, etc.
So good–thank you! I have been lusting after a Bottega Veneta woven leather bag (not sure which one exactly but it doesn’t matter bc they are all out of my range!) for a number of years. Tiffany and Fred popped on the scene with dupes. I have been curious if that would satisfy my urge. I don’t think it would, so I’m just doing much browsing and no purchasing. The Clare V Moyen is another I have thought about but that skews trend not dupe of the BV wovens. Thanks for writing this up.
I’ve read that the bags that change shape and clasp together are sometimes called “dumpling” bags. Songmont has a bag called the Luna which does this.
And then I’ve seen the gathered ones with a clasp or zipper closure are dumplings, and ones with strongs to cinch are dumplings… it’s so confusing like all the “core” trends happening!
I think it’s important to add to this discussion that buying actual counterfeit bags is not worth it when you realize they’re usually made by child and human trafficked labor working in exploitive conditions. Many people justify buying these bags bcs the expensive designer brands are wealthy enough to lose the money to counterfeiting without realizing the people being exploited in the process.
If a bag is very cheap consider how the labor to make it is being paid.
( please note this is about counterfeit not necessarily dupe bags)